Comparison between: SA3135, SH3135, VR3135, VS3135, 2021Noob
SA3135
This is really the entry-level clone of the 3135. It is very popular and is used by most factories. Compared to VR, VS and Noob2021, the SA has the lowest price. The easiest way to identify this movement is to look at the balance pin. It is round and located to the left of the regulator.
Working on the SA3135 is quite straight forward. Anyone who had worked on the 2824 family, should be able to service your 3135 clone. There is really nothing that was tricky in breaking down the movement. 7750 family (and especially the 2894-2 chrono) are a different story.
The SA3135 is probably the worst in the quality department. Not only the parts are low quality, but the manufacture decided to make them incompatible with gen and other clone manufactures.
Here is the SA barrel as compared to VSF and Gen.
Automatic assembly as compared to the Noob2021.
Main plate as compared with others. SA just cut corner where ever it can.
The biggest and the most common problem with the SA is the automatic assembly. Many have complained the failure of the automatic assembly due to the worn down gears of ratchet wheel driving wheel or the reversing wheels. From looking at the design, I believe the issue is this:
There is this large gap between the lower and upper bridge of the automatic assembly. Because the driving wheel and the reversing wheels are not tightly engaged, the gears slipped and overtime worn down.
Now, look at how this is being done in the VS. There is no gap. The lower and upper bridge of the automatic assembly forced the wheels to be tightly engaged and, therefore, the gears don’t slip and don’t get worn down.
Same with the new Noob2021.
If you can, steer toward the VR, VS, or Noob2021. Or, just take the A2824/A2836 option if price is a concern.
SH3135
This movement is also sometimes called Yuki. It is really one of the original 3135 clone.
The easiest way to identify this movement is by looking at the balance wheel. The regulator is rectangular and it is located to the right of the stud. Additionally the jewel is surrounded by gray/silver sleeve instead of gold/brass in color.
SH3135 is a welcome alternative to the SA3135 purely for its ability to take on different parts from gen or other clones. So if your SH broke, you can just replace it with parts from other clone movements (with exception to the SA, of course).
Franken SH3135. Worked like a charm.
Quality wise, as compared to VR, VS and the Noob2021, it is still quite bad. I found the parts to be really rough and harsh. Here is the train bridge as compared to the Noob2021:
..and the same part as compared to Gen
Look at the pallet bridge as compared to VS3135.
The gears are really rough as well. Why is this important? Well, if the parts are brittle, I guarantee you will break them somewhere down the road during the service cycles (yes, I had broken off springs and gears multiple times).
Here is the second gear as compared to the nicely finished Noob2021:
Interestingly enough, SH is one of the only two movements (VS being the other) that don’t use the banking pins. So, it is more gen like in that design.
Here is the VR that uses the usual banking pins that you would normally find in any of the 2824 family.
The SH3135 is really the older dinosaur of the 3135 clone movements. If possible, I would look for the VR option, at the very least. However, you do have the option of replacing parts with other clone movements, in case anything break.
If you want to start learning how to service the 3135 (and assuming you have already messed around with cheaper movements), SH3135 would be a perfect choice.
VR3135 and Noob2021
Most of the recent high-end Rolex reps now use the VR3135.
It is being viewed as the most reliable and widely available movement in the market currently. Here is the VR3135 in my No-Date sub from Clean Factory:
VR is, no doubt, a step forward in term of quality as compared to the SA and SH. The bridges, plates, gears are just better in finish. Here is the all important pallet fork:
Even the four little blue screws on the dial side are entirely finished blue on the VR, as compared to just blue painted on the top as in the SA.
Let’s see how it is compared to the Noob2021.
Noob2021 is being billed as the later descendent of the VR. At the time of this writing, the VR can be bought for around $120 while the Noob2021 is around $160.
Is the Noob2021 a new and improved version of the VR?
Well, let’s take a look at some of the most important and most widely used parts in any watch movement. First up, the gear train.
Can you spot any difference? Not really, they are exactly the same. How about the automatic assembly:
No difference. How about the entire dial side with the calendar works and the keyless works:
They are exactly the same, even these tiniest springs.
But, the balance is certainly different:
With exception to the introduction of the fake adjuster and having the whole regulator and stud rotate 180 degree, every components on the balance are exactly the same:
So, what parts had been changed. The finish on the automatic assembly appears to have a finer finish.
Unfortunately, the engraving on the Noob2021 still a bit off as compared to gen.
The barrel is also changed with an attempt to look more like gen.
The rotor has a better finish, a little closer to gen.
As far as the inner working components, both movements have the exact same parts.
Replicas with the VR will cost a little more than the SA or SH equivalent. But, you will have a better movement which will, hopefully, last longer with regular services.
As far as choosing between the Noob2021 or VR, if you want the closer to gen look, go for the Noob2021 (but again, turning the regulator and stud 180 degree will just make adjusting the balance more difficult).
If you have any suggestions please comment below or send us an email.
If you are interested in reading other articles on various comparisons, check out this section of our blog.
Source: the web
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